At some point in everyone's climbing career, they are given, find, or buy a piece of used climbing equipment and are forced into a difficult decision. We all love free/discounted stuff, and climbing gear is extremely expensive. Speaking from experience, the average climber does not have a huge amount of money to spend on gear. A full rack can costs thousands of dollars. This brings us to the dilemma at hand; are we willing to skimp and be frugal on something that prevents us from dying? That's not a rhetorical question; it's something you must ask yourself.
Rugged Innovations has created a checklist for people who are wondering, "Is this used climbing gear still safe to use?" Ultimately, nobody can answer that question conclusively - there are too many factors at play. We hope you will use the checklist as a baseline for gear scrutiny. Put on your Inspector Clouseau hat, grab your magnifying glass, and get ready to take a long, hard look at some equipment!
"Is this used/old climbing gear safe to use?" A checklist:
1. Software:
"Is this used/old climbing gear safe to use?" A checklist:
1. Software:
- Ropes:
Your rope is one of your only non-redundant pieces of gear. It represents a single point of failure and it's malfunction can lead to your death. This means it warrants extra scrutiny. The manufacturers usually recommend replacing standard ropes after 3 years of light use and after 1 year of heavy use. If you get a hand-me-down rope, and the person who gave it to you cannot speak at great length about how it was used, toss it. Pretend you're an HR recruiter and the rope just handed you a résumé. There should be no unaccounted-for gaps in the rope's "employment history." Ask them when they bought it, how often and where they used it, and how it was stored. If they hesitate or aren't totally sure, don't risk it! Don't be that guy whose frayed, fuzzy, Chewbacca-looking rope is giving everyone at the crag anxiety attacks.
If your rope looks relatively new, you know exactly how old it is (newer than 3 years), and you know that it was stored safely (No water, UV light, chemical damage, etc.), proceed to a manual inspection of the rope. This is very time consuming. You know what else takes a long time? Being dead.
Run your hands through every inch of your rope. According to Climbing.com, you are "feeling for “flat spots” (places where the inner fibers have deformed from repeated or high-fall-factor falls), “core shots” (nicks in the sheath that expose the core), and overall stiffness." If you find any of these, chuck it. A new Edelrid Boa 9.8mm Dynamic Climbing Rope - 70m
costs about $170 bucks. 70 meters, too! Excellent price.
- Harnesses:
These are made of nylon with a structural webbing inside. This is similar to the rope in design (sheath and core) and also suffers some of the same problems: A) Non-redundant parts (belay loop), and B) The covering prevents you from visually inspecting the weight-bearing elements. Like the rope, inspect your harness with the utmost care. In particular, take a long hard look at the belay loop and tie-in points. If any of the nylon is cut or nicked, it's time to replace it. A new harness will set you back about 60 bucks. You can buy the Black Diamond Momentum SA Harness
that we talked about in a previous post for $54.95.
- Quickdraws, slings, webbing, nylon, spectra, cordlette, etc:
This stuff is tough, flexible, and fortunately, usually redundant. Like your rope, it is vulnerable to nicks, cuts, frays. However, unlike your rope, it does not have a sheath on it. This means that the little cuts that can occur from regular use can greatly reduce the strength of the system. A little bit of fuzziness on the top layer is probably okay, but any cuts or nicks can be dangerous. This stuff is really cheap to buy new, so don't skimp in this department. A new dogbone costs $5-6, slings cost $10-15, and cordlette can be bought by the foot for great prices. Our last post discusses the Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw
; it'll cost you $11.95.
We recently found out that some cam manufacturers will replace the slings on your cams for a very low price. This is great, because the software on a cam usually wears out much, much faster than the hardware. Cams and other hardware can be very expensive, so if you get acquire old set of cams, this can be a great way to breathe new life into them and save a lot of money. Later, we discuss how to look at your old cams to see if they're worth using.
Here's some links for getting your Black Diamond or Metolius cams reslung and/or rewired:
2. Hardware:
- Belay Devices:
Belay devices are small, metal, and extremely durable. They are another non-redundant element in your rack. Once again, exercise caution when inspecting a used belay device. There are many different kinds of belay devices, but there is one universal truth about them: whether you are using a tube-style device (like a Black Diamond ATC
, Petzl Reverso 4
, or Trango Jaws Belay Device
), or a mechanical device (Petzl Grigri 2
, Trango Cinch
, etc), climbing exposes your belay device to a great deal of rope friction. This means that after extended use, they can develop sharp edges where the rope slides through them. Eventually, this wears out the metal and sharpens it into an edge. This edge can cut your rope! If your belay device has any sharp edges or worn-out divots, dump it. Make a Christmas ornament out of it, or something. I dunno. Belay devices start at around $20.
- Carabiners:
These guys are pretty tough, given their size and weight. They are a redundant element of your climbing rack. They are usually rated to around 22 kilonewtons of vertical pulling force, but that number only applies if the gate is closed. If your 'biner isn't closed, it's only rated to about 7 kilonewtons. That is not a lot of kilonewtons. Make sure the gate on your old biner opens and closes smoothly with no sticking. If there is a groove in the carabiner from rope friction, chuck it; these grooves can get sharp and cut your rope. Any big nicks or dents in the carabiners should also be grounds for retirement. Use your judgement here. New carabiners start at around $6. A pack of six brand new, color-coded, wire gate Black Diamond Neutrino
carabiners costs $34.95. A fancy Black Diamond Hoodwire Wiregate Carabiner
costs $9.
- Cams:
This is an area where you can save a decent amount of money by using second-hand gear. Structurally, these pieces of protection do not deteriorate as quickly as other elements. Well taken care of, a cam can last a long time. However, you should still take a long, close look at your cams. First of all, hold the cam as though you're going to place it. Test the action. Does it stick at all? Is there any suspicious friction throughout the entire range of motion? If so, clean it thoroughly and try the action again. If it still sticks, you may need to replace it or have it repaired by the manufacturer. The problem with sticky action in cams is that it can prevent them from fully expanding into their placement when you load them. If you take a whip and your cam doesn't deploy properly, you are going to look like Wiley Coyote chasing the Roadrunner off a cliff. Meep meep.
Next, inspect the physical attributes of the cams. Check all the moving parts, including the lobes, the axle, the springs, and the trigger. Any obvious deformations should be cause for concern. The axle should be straight and without defects. The lobes can be slightly worn, but bends can prevent the cam from opening, closing, and rolling properly.
Cams often have slings attached to them. As mentioned in the "Software" section of this post, these slings can fray, cut, or otherwise deteriorate. This will happen at a rate much faster than the deterioration of the metal cam components. Fortunately, manufacturers like Black Diamond and Metolius (and possibly others) will resling and/or rewire your cams, extending their life. I will repost that information for your disposal:
If your rope looks relatively new, you know exactly how old it is (newer than 3 years), and you know that it was stored safely (No water, UV light, chemical damage, etc.), proceed to a manual inspection of the rope. This is very time consuming. You know what else takes a long time? Being dead.
Run your hands through every inch of your rope. According to Climbing.com, you are "feeling for “flat spots” (places where the inner fibers have deformed from repeated or high-fall-factor falls), “core shots” (nicks in the sheath that expose the core), and overall stiffness." If you find any of these, chuck it. A new Edelrid Boa 9.8mm Dynamic Climbing Rope - 70m
costs about $170 bucks. 70 meters, too! Excellent price.- Harnesses:
These are made of nylon with a structural webbing inside. This is similar to the rope in design (sheath and core) and also suffers some of the same problems: A) Non-redundant parts (belay loop), and B) The covering prevents you from visually inspecting the weight-bearing elements. Like the rope, inspect your harness with the utmost care. In particular, take a long hard look at the belay loop and tie-in points. If any of the nylon is cut or nicked, it's time to replace it. A new harness will set you back about 60 bucks. You can buy the Black Diamond Momentum SA Harness
that we talked about in a previous post for $54.95.- Quickdraws, slings, webbing, nylon, spectra, cordlette, etc:
This stuff is tough, flexible, and fortunately, usually redundant. Like your rope, it is vulnerable to nicks, cuts, frays. However, unlike your rope, it does not have a sheath on it. This means that the little cuts that can occur from regular use can greatly reduce the strength of the system. A little bit of fuzziness on the top layer is probably okay, but any cuts or nicks can be dangerous. This stuff is really cheap to buy new, so don't skimp in this department. A new dogbone costs $5-6, slings cost $10-15, and cordlette can be bought by the foot for great prices. Our last post discusses the Black Diamond FreeWire Quickdraw
; it'll cost you $11.95.We recently found out that some cam manufacturers will replace the slings on your cams for a very low price. This is great, because the software on a cam usually wears out much, much faster than the hardware. Cams and other hardware can be very expensive, so if you get acquire old set of cams, this can be a great way to breathe new life into them and save a lot of money. Later, we discuss how to look at your old cams to see if they're worth using.
Here's some links for getting your Black Diamond or Metolius cams reslung and/or rewired:
- Metolius - Metolius Cam Repair Form.
- Black Diamond - Black Diamond Cam Reslinging Information.
2. Hardware:
- Belay Devices:
Belay devices are small, metal, and extremely durable. They are another non-redundant element in your rack. Once again, exercise caution when inspecting a used belay device. There are many different kinds of belay devices, but there is one universal truth about them: whether you are using a tube-style device (like a Black Diamond ATC
, Petzl Reverso 4, or Trango Jaws Belay Device), or a mechanical device (Petzl Grigri 2
, Trango Cinch
, etc), climbing exposes your belay device to a great deal of rope friction. This means that after extended use, they can develop sharp edges where the rope slides through them. Eventually, this wears out the metal and sharpens it into an edge. This edge can cut your rope! If your belay device has any sharp edges or worn-out divots, dump it. Make a Christmas ornament out of it, or something. I dunno. Belay devices start at around $20. - Carabiners:
These guys are pretty tough, given their size and weight. They are a redundant element of your climbing rack. They are usually rated to around 22 kilonewtons of vertical pulling force, but that number only applies if the gate is closed. If your 'biner isn't closed, it's only rated to about 7 kilonewtons. That is not a lot of kilonewtons. Make sure the gate on your old biner opens and closes smoothly with no sticking. If there is a groove in the carabiner from rope friction, chuck it; these grooves can get sharp and cut your rope. Any big nicks or dents in the carabiners should also be grounds for retirement. Use your judgement here. New carabiners start at around $6. A pack of six brand new, color-coded, wire gate Black Diamond Neutrino
carabiners costs $34.95. A fancy Black Diamond Hoodwire Wiregate Carabiner costs $9.- Cams:
This is an area where you can save a decent amount of money by using second-hand gear. Structurally, these pieces of protection do not deteriorate as quickly as other elements. Well taken care of, a cam can last a long time. However, you should still take a long, close look at your cams. First of all, hold the cam as though you're going to place it. Test the action. Does it stick at all? Is there any suspicious friction throughout the entire range of motion? If so, clean it thoroughly and try the action again. If it still sticks, you may need to replace it or have it repaired by the manufacturer. The problem with sticky action in cams is that it can prevent them from fully expanding into their placement when you load them. If you take a whip and your cam doesn't deploy properly, you are going to look like Wiley Coyote chasing the Roadrunner off a cliff. Meep meep.
Next, inspect the physical attributes of the cams. Check all the moving parts, including the lobes, the axle, the springs, and the trigger. Any obvious deformations should be cause for concern. The axle should be straight and without defects. The lobes can be slightly worn, but bends can prevent the cam from opening, closing, and rolling properly.
Cams often have slings attached to them. As mentioned in the "Software" section of this post, these slings can fray, cut, or otherwise deteriorate. This will happen at a rate much faster than the deterioration of the metal cam components. Fortunately, manufacturers like Black Diamond and Metolius (and possibly others) will resling and/or rewire your cams, extending their life. I will repost that information for your disposal:
- Metolius - Metolius Cam Repair Form.
- Black Diamond - Black Diamond Cam Reslinging Information.
- Nuts:
Nuts, like cams, are (ideally...) redundant pieces of equipment. Another great thing about nuts is that they have no moving parts. They are very strong, sturdy, and can last a long time with proper care. There are a few things to look out for with old nuts. First of all, look for obvious signs of heavy damage. I have never seen the head of a nut break or severely deform, but I am sure it's happened. The wires on nuts are much more likely to cause issues. Although they are flexible and meant to bend, all it takes is one solid fall to heavily warp or gouge the wire. I have seen people climb on heavily bent wires, but I wouldn't risk it. According to Climbing.com, you can remove any burrs or frays in the wire with a metal file and nail clippers. Nuts start at $10 and I certainly wouldn't risk using a nut with a damaged wire. You can pick up a full set of really high-quality, light Metolius Ultralight Curve Nuts
for $129.95.Conclusion: It should go without saying that climbing is a risky sport, but even within the blanket term "risk," there is a spectrum of risk that we are all willing to accept. On the low end of the risk-preference scale, you have a gym rat in basketball shorts using rented equipment and toproping a 30-foot-tall "5.10a"... Let's call that a one (1). On the higher end of the scale, you have Alex Honnold free soloing El Cap in Yosemite. We'll say that's ten (10). We at Rugged Innovation fall at around a 4 or 5. This entire article was written from that perspective; we are willing to accept a moderate amount of risk to have fun or save some money. Please remember that your preference for risk may be very different than ours.
Climbing is a very dangerous sport. People fall and die every single year. If you want to reduce all your gear-related risk, buy brand new equipment! Better yet, take up a safe hobby. Netflix has thousands of TV shows and movies for you to get engrossed in. Reddit has enough pictures of cats to last a lifetime. As a rock climber, you should have an ongoing discussion between yourself, your climbing partners, and your friends/family about risk. I'm going to go hug my cat right now.
I beg you. I implore you. I beseech you. I, uh... I ask you really politely; please be safe.
by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations
For supplemental reading, please visit the following links:
Climbing.com: Tech Tip - Trad - Making the Call.
Climbing.About.com - Taking Care of Climbing Equipment.
TheBMC.co.uk - Tech skills: Retiring textile equipment.
p.s. A Reddit reader made a great point. When you DO retire climbing-specific gear (stuff you can't use for other, non-load-bearing purposes like a harness), make sure you destroy it! You don't want someone to find it and think it's safe to use.
