Anchor and Fixed Gear Replacement Movements sweep the U.S.

Rapidly deteriorating fixed rappel rings, bolts, and anchors are starting to become a major safety issue. Much of the fixed gear at America's favorite climbing crags has been around since the 70s or 80s. Young climbers are risking their lives by climbing on rusty equipment that's older than them. 

Rebolting of Birdhunter Buttress,
from AlpineInstitute.blogspot.com

There's often no way to know the condition of the anchors you will later abseil from. If you're climbing from the ground up you look to the skies and hope they're safe. The bolts can also be problematic. Even brand new bolts and anchors can be a hazard if they are not installed safely. Falls onto bolts can very easily generate thousands of pounds of force. Old pins and pitons are unbelievably sketchy, but we use them all the time. Sport climbers and trad climbers alike benefit from the replacement of unsafe gear.

I'm no physicist or engineer, but let's do some napkin math. A bolt is a 2-inch piece of steel that is drilled into a wall. It is exposed to snow, hail, acid rain, and UV light. Some of these bolts have been sitting around for 30 years. When rock climbers fall, forces can exceed 10 kilonewtons. A kilonewton is approximately 224 lbs. 10 kilonewtons * 224 lbs. = 2240 lbs. I don't think a rusty, 30 year old, 2-inch piece of steel can hold 2240 pounds of force, and I am not willing to risk my life to find out.

A movement is growing in popular climbing crags across the United States. Grassroots groups and nonprofit organizations are starting to spring up everywhere. Sometimes, a small and dedicated group of local climbers will get together and pool their resources to refurbish just one local crag. In other cases, large nonprofit organizations like the American Safe Climbing Association, the Access Fund, and others will contribute time and resources to the cause.

These movements have also attracted the attention of companies. In 2003, Climbing Magazine, Petzl, and The North Face launched the Anchor Replacement Initiative. Dozens of big-name climbing companies like Black Diamond, Mammut, Metolius, Super Topo, and Mountain Project have contributed money and gear to these efforts.

To date, tens of thousands of old bolts and anchors have been replaced. Nonprofit groups are tirelessly replacing bolts and anchors on our favorite routes out of their own pockets. This type of selfless, pay-it-forward mentality keeps rock climbing fun, safe, and increases the sense of camaraderie between generations of rock climbers.

Get involved! Your time, money, or expertise can create a lasting positive impact on the climbing community. It might even save your life!

Stay safe.

by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations


For additional reading, please visit the following websites:
Anchor Replacement Initiative
American Safe Climbing Association
Access Fund and National Park Service Petition
Yank the Mank
Team Suck Climbing
BadBolts.com