Saturday, May 4, 2013

Review: La Sportiva TC Pro, Tommy Caldwell's Climbing Shoe

La Sportiva TC Pro.
The La Sportiva TC Pro is the quintessential big wall climbing shoe.  This shoe is a trad climbing dream -- you'd expect nothing less from a Tommy Caldwell signature shoe. The  La Sportiva TC Pro was designed for big wall adventure and all day comfort. These climbing shoes have a variety of features that contribute to the comfort and performance that an absolute hellbeast climber like Tommy Caldwell demands.

Tommy Caldwell needs no introduction.  His first ascents line the history books. Let's not forget about the time Tommy Caldwell stone-cold killed a guy in Kyrgyzstan. That's pretty hardcore. He is a true Yosemite hardman.

Tommy's La Sportiva TC Pros are equally hardcore. These shoes have strategically placed padding on the ankles to protect you in cracks and other tight squeezes.  Anyone who has come home with ankles covered in bruises appreciates this design choice.  While the sides of the ankle are covered, the back of the ankle covering is cut in, giving your Achilles tendon room to stretch into a tip-toe position -- also quite nice. The flexibility enables some moves that the hightops would otherwise prevent.

The bottom of the shoe, called the "last", is flat.  Having a flat (as opposed to downturned) last makes the shoe more comfortable for standing on a small edge for a while trying to get a piece of gear in -- or standing around at belay ledges while your partner tries to get himself unstuck from whatever predicament he's gotten himself into. The P3 platform is stiff, allowing you to stand on small edges for long periods of time without discomfort. They really do offer a ton of support.  I should know; I've been stuck on big multipitch climbs in these for hours.  They have vent holes throughout, allowing your feet to breathe on those hot days.

One downside to the TC Pros is the price.  At $180, the La Sportiva TC Pro shoes are the most expensive climbing shoes on the market.  You could buy two other pairs of shoes with amount of money it takes to buy these.  That said, the quality is outstanding.

La Sportiva TC Pro at a rakish angle. 
While the shoes boast comfort and durability, you will be pleasantly surprised with the performance.  The edges are made with Vibram XS Edge rubber.  They are sharp and great on technical footwork or tiny edges.  I've used these shoes on sport climbs up to the 5.10d/5.11a range with no performance issues compared to a self-designated sport shoe. Above that, I end up preferring something more aggressive, downturned, and sharp.

My TC Pros are at least 2 years old.  They are, to-date, the most comfortable climbing shoes I've ever worn.  I've spent 8-10 hours straight in these shoes with no shoe-related discomfort. As you can see in the pictures, they've held up pretty well over the years.  There is some minor cosmetic damage, but they still perform admirably.  They might also be the longest-lasting pair of shoes I've ever had.  That's no small feat, considering the amount of abuse I put shoes through.

The bottom line: If you want ridiculously long-lasting, all-day performance and comfort when climbing multipitch or big wall trad, the La Sportiva TC Pro is the best shoe on the market.  Like some other La Sportiva products, the price is very high, but the quality is remarkable. If you're looking for something with a lower price but similar performance, I suggest the La Sportiva Mythos or the FiveTen Men's Anasazi Lace-Up V2.

You can purchase the La Sportiva TC Pro climbing shoes for $179.95 on Amazon at the link below:
 

Be safe.

Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

2 comments:

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