The Best Beginner Climbing Shoes: Low Price and High Quality

The Best Beginner Climbing Shoes: High Quality, Low Price

There are lots of different types and styles of climbing, but climbing shoes are a universal fact of life. Unless all you do is ice climb, you're going to need some rock shoes. We've reviewed a lot of shoes here and there are many great options, but as a beginner climber there are a few facts of life that should guide your decision. 

Price

The cost of gear is a concern to all of us. Climbing ain't cheap. As a new climber, you're going to destroy your gear until you learn proper climbing technique and develop good habits for taking care of your stuff. Even if you can afford to drop some serious cash on climbing shoes, I really don't recommend it for your first pair. 

New climbers who are still learning footwork are going to heavily favor certain stances. Because of this, they tend to quickly wear out and rip through the rubber in specific areas of their shoe, like the toe. I've seen this happen to a lot of people and unless you're gifted or great on your feet, you should probably consider your first pair of shoes to be essentially disposable. I do not recommend you go out and spend $150+ on a pair of 5.10 Blackwings or La Sportiva Miuras. You are going to destroy them and waste your money. I really recommend your first pair of shoes be a very modest pair of shoes. If you can find a pair of hand-me-downs from a climbing friend, give 'em a shot if they fit you. You can ask around at your local gym or put up a flier, check Craigslist, or go to the annual REI yard sale.

If you want to pick up a new pair, there are plenty of affordable options. Technology has advanced so quickly that you can get an incredible pair of shoes for less than $100. In my opinion, one of the best options is the Five Ten Coyote VCS ($68.98 on Amazon) -- the gym nearest to me uses these as their rental shoes and I've worn them many times. These are the best value climbing shoes I've tried, hands down. The quality on these shoes is incredible for being ~$70. Even on the worn-out rental models that have been used and abused by hundreds of people, they perform well. They hold an edge and have a great stiffness support in the arch. Most importantly, they're comfortable! You really can't go wrong getting a pair of the new 5.10 Coyote VCS.

Fit

One of the most important element of climbing shoes is fit. Because of this, I definitely recommend you try before you buy. There is no industry standard for climbing shoe sizes between manufacturers, meaning that a size 7 from one company can feel like a size 10 of another. The only way to know is to try them on. If there's an REI or EMS in your area, go into the store and try on a few different pairs. Many climbers choose shoes that are a few sizes down from their street shoes, but this is not something you should worry about as a newbie. Get a pair that fits you perfectly. Keep in mind that climbing shoes are supposed to be tight, but if they're really tight, you're going to be in so much pain that you won't be able to learn fundamental footing technique.

The shoe should feel snug everywhere, but not constrict your toes or pinch when tightened. Certain shoes have a heel cup that balloons out and leaves a little air pocket, creating a gap between your heel and the inside of the shoe. This drives me crazy, but a bunch of people don't seem to mind because it's a characteristic of one of the most popular rock shoes ever. This may not be a concern to you, but it's worth examining to determine your preferences.

You may have noticed that some rock shoes have a steep downturn starting at the heel, driving through the arch, and continuing to the toe. These shoes are meant for precise, strong footwork on hard, overhanging routes and boulder problems. The amount of downturn on a shoe is referred to by many climbers as its "aggressiveness". As a new climber, you probably won't need an aggressively downturned shoe. In fact, you probably don't need any downturn at all.

As you advance and get better at climbing, you may find yourself gravitating towards tighter shoes to improve the mechanical advantage (wiki) of your feet relative to surface area of the foothold. In the past, climbers would downsize heavily to compensate for the amount that rock shoes would stretch over time. With current advances in material sciences, heavy downsizing is not necessary to ensure a good fit. Let me be clear: only downsize heavily if you know exactly what you are doing. Let me be more clear: new climbers do not need to downsize their shoes. Get a shoe that fits. 

Durability

You might as well accept that you are going to absolutely mangle your first pair of shoes. The toe is going to blow out way before you are ready to spend another ~$100 bucks. That said, not all shoes are created equal, and some shoe rubber is way tougher. 

In my experience, the best shoe rubber is used by La Sportiva. I've had two pairs of La Sportivas and the rubber is crazy good. It's just unbelievably long-lasting. I've had the same pair of La Sportiva TC Pro shoes for almost 3 years without blowing a toe. I've taken it up (and back down) thousands of vertical feet without even a slight cut in the rubber. I really can't say enough about it. I am constantly impressed by it. 

Five Ten is also known for its really grippy and long-lasting Stealth C4 rubber. I have worn a few pairs of 5.10s and I appreciate their longevity. Evolv, on the other hand, has horrible rubber in my experience. I had the toes on a pair of Evolvs blow in the first week of owning a pair. On a separate pair, the edges wore out within 3-4 months and are now totally rounded. 

How to Choose Your First Climbing Shoe

First things first! Determine your budget. If you're broke, ask other climbers for their hand-me-downs. Most people who have been climbing for a long time have a trashy pair of old shoes in the garage. You can probably get an old pair for free or very cheap. Keep in mind that there's a reason why those shoes are under a pile of shovels and rakes in the garage -- they either suck or are totally destroyed. Beggars can't be choosers, though! Rock climbing gyms often have a corkboard where people put up classified ads. You might be able to find a great deal for under $50 there!

If you're willing to pony up a little more, you can find all kinds of great shoes. My favorite beginner shoe by far is the Five Ten Coyote VCS ($68.98 on Amazon). It's a durable workhorse shoe with serious edge potential. These shoes will grow with your climbing skill.

For a little more money, you can pick up La Sportiva Tarantula (price varies on Amazon). La Sportiva's rubber is known for being long-lasting and durable. This is a slightly longer-lasting shoe that will also keep up with you as you advance your climbing.

Hopefully you have the resources now to make an educated decision about your first pair of climbing shoes. Shoes are an important and highly personal element of climbing. Experiment a lot and see what works for you!

Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

Kids Climbing Gear: Choosing the Right Shoes

Choosing the Right Climbing Shoes for your Kid

Today, we will discuss choosing the best pair of rock climbing shoes for your little one. Kid rock climbers, like adult rock climbers, have different needs for shoes. Some kids are new to climbing and need a cheap starter pair that they can really abuse until they learn technique. Other kids have been climbing for a longer period and need shoes that are specific to their climbing style. Some kids have been climbing for a while and are frequenting competitions and outdoor crags. 

There are a variety of different factors that can influence which pair of rock shoes are going to be the best purchase. We want you to make an educated decision because -- let's face it -- climbing gear is expensive!

Getting a Climbing Shoe that Suits your Child's Needs

The most important thing your kid's shoe needs to do is fit properly. I can't stress this enough. If the shoes are too big they will severely impede performance and can create blisters where the material shifts around. If the shoes are too small they will be difficult to put on and painful to climb in. You need to find shoes that fit your kid. This can be challenging because kid's feet grow every year! You will have to upgrade your kid's shoe probably once per year; this is fine, because they will likely wear through them at that speed anyway!

Mad Rock Mad Monkey Kids Climbing Shoe

Climbing shoes tend to run pretty small, so you may consider purchasing one size higher than your child normally wears. This will also allow them to wear socks with the shoes. The shoes should be snug and if they fit well they should be slightly harder to put on than normal shoes. 

One particular shoe that I am fond of (and is an incredibly good deal right now) is the Mad Rock Mad Monkey Kids Climbing Shoe ($29.88 at that Amazon link). You will notice that a velcro strap goes around the heel. Opening this velcro strap and the elastic band beneath it allow you to put the kid's toes in first, then pull the heel of the shoe down and under the kid's heel. It's a breeze to put on. This particular deal comes with a free DVD. At $30, this is one (if not the) of the cheapest climbing shoes on the market; it's nearly half the price of other shoes. This is a great choice for a beginner, because the price is so low that your kid can absolutely destroy these shoes and you're not out a whole lot. One thing to consider is that these shoes have a synthetic (rather than leather) upper, which makes them less stretchy. This is a consideration if your kid is experiencing growth spurts. Still, the elastic around the heel should allow the shoe to stretch moderately as your child grows. This is our choice for a

5.10 Mini Mocc Kids Climbing Shoe

Another thing to consider is that each company uses different lasts to construct their shoes. Lasts are basically the "model foot" that the shoe is designed and constructed around. Since humans have naturally different shaped feet, it make sense that lasts are slightly different. Each company has their own style of shoe design that is more-or-less uniform throughout their product catalog. The company FiveTen shoes have very pronounced heel boxes in my experience. Their shoes use a rubber called Stealth C4 which has great performance and is relatively long-lasting, too.

The FiveTen Mini Mocc Climbing Shoe is a great choice for a slightly more experienced kiddo. These slip-on shoes use the aforementioned Stealth C4 rubber which will let their feet hang onto those impossibly-tiny footholds at the competitions. The leather will, once broken-in, take the shape of their foot. A big elastic on the top of the foot with a velcro closure allows you to put them on easily and adjust the shoe for a perfect fit. The FiveTen Mini Mocc starts at $33.90 on Amazon. This is our choice for a "high-performance gym shoe".

La Sportiva Stickit Climbing Shoe

Another shoe worth mentioning is the La Sportiva Stickit. In my experience, La Sportiva makes the longest-lasting climbing shoe. They are absolutely durable to the end. I have a pair of adult-sized La Sportiva TC Pros and they are older than dirt and still hold a corner. If you are looking for longevity, these shoes are the way to go. The lacing is flexible and allows for a variety of different foot shapes. One cool feature of these shoes is the elastic material around the heel and upper. It's almost like a water shoe! The elastic is stretchy down through the bottom of the heel, allowing the kid's feet to grow a little bit and still fit. This feature, when combined with the overall longevity of La Sportiva's materials and construction, makes the La Sportiva Stickit our choice for "longest-lasting kids climbing shoe". The La Sportiva Stickit is $49.95 on Amazon and worth every penny.

So there you have it, folks! Three solid shoes for three different purposes:

Best beginner kids climbing shoe and best value: 

Mad Rock Mad Monkey Kids Climbing Shoe with FREE Climbing DVD ($30 Value) ($29.88 on Amazon)

Best high-performance kids climbing shoe:

FiveTen Mini Mocc Climbing Shoe (starts at $33.00 on Amazon)

Longest-lasting kids climbing shoe: 

La Sportiva Stickit Kids Climbing Shoes ($49.95 on Amazon)

Be safe!

Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

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Review: La Sportiva TC Pro, Tommy Caldwell's Climbing Shoe

La Sportiva TC Pro.

The La Sportiva TC Pro is the quintessential big wall climbing shoe.  This shoe is a trad climbing dream -- you'd expect nothing less from a Tommy Caldwell signature shoe. The  La Sportiva TC Pro was designed for big wall adventure and all day comfort. These climbing shoes have a variety of features that contribute to the comfort and performance that an absolute hellbeast climber like Tommy Caldwell demands.

Tommy Caldwell needs no introduction.  His first ascents line the history books. Let's not forget about the time Tommy Caldwell stone-cold killed a guy in Kyrgyzstan. That's pretty hardcore. He is a true Yosemite hardman.

Tommy's La Sportiva TC Pros are equally hardcore. These shoes have strategically placed padding on the ankles to protect you in cracks and other tight squeezes.  Anyone who has come home with ankles covered in bruises appreciates this design choice.  While the sides of the ankle are covered, the back of the ankle covering is cut in, giving your Achilles tendon room to stretch into a tip-toe position -- also quite nice. The flexibility enables some moves that the hightops would otherwise prevent.

The bottom of the shoe, called the "last", is flat.  Having a flat (as opposed to downturned) last makes the shoe more comfortable for standing on a small edge for a while trying to get a piece of gear in -- or standing around at belay ledges while your partner tries to get himself unstuck from whatever predicament he's gotten himself into. The P3 platform is stiff, allowing you to stand on small edges for long periods of time without discomfort. They really do offer a ton of support.  I should know; I've been stuck on big multipitch climbs in these for hours.  They have vent holes throughout, allowing your feet to breathe on those hot days.

One downside to the TC Pros is the price.  At $180, the La Sportiva TC Pro shoes are the most expensive climbing shoes on the market.  You could buy two other pairs of shoes with amount of money it takes to buy these.  That said, the quality is outstanding.

La Sportiva TC Pro at a rakish angle. 

While the shoes boast comfort and durability, you will be pleasantly surprised with the performance.  The edges are made with Vibram XS Edge rubber.  They are sharp and great on technical footwork or tiny edges.  I've used these shoes on sport climbs up to the 5.10d/5.11a range with no performance issues compared to a self-designated sport shoe. Above that, I end up preferring something more aggressive, downturned, and sharp.

My TC Pros are at least 2 years old.  They are, to-date, the most comfortable climbing shoes I've ever worn.  I've spent 8-10 hours straight in these shoes with no shoe-related discomfort. As you can see in the pictures, they've held up pretty well over the years.  There is some minor cosmetic damage, but they still perform admirably.  They might also be the longest-lasting pair of shoes I've ever had.  That's no small feat, considering the amount of abuse I put shoes through.

The bottom line: If you want ridiculously long-lasting, all-day performance and comfort when climbing multipitch or big wall trad, the La Sportiva TC Pro is the best shoe on the market.  Like some other La Sportiva products, the price is very high, but the quality is remarkable. If you're looking for something with a lower price but similar performance, I suggest the La Sportiva Mythos or the FiveTen Men's Anasazi Lace-Up V2.

You can purchase the La Sportiva TC Pro climbing shoes for $179.95 on Amazon at the link below:
 

Be safe.

Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

Review: La Sportiva Solution Climbing Shoe

Review: La Sportiva Solution Climbing Shoe

I'm going to cut right to the chase. The La Sportiva Solutions are incredible climbing shoes for sport and bouldering. They are expensive -- no doubt -- but the quality definitely reflects the price. You will feel the work La Sportiva has put into this shoe.

First of all, these shoes are as about aggro as they come. The downturn at the midsole and toe is just... angry. If you are doing hard, overhanging boulder problems or sport routes with tiny feet, these shoes deliver. The rubber at the tip of the shoe covers the toes; this is an advantage if you find yourself toe hooking frequently.

The heel cup on these shoes feels like a little octopus is gently clinging to the heel of your foot with its little suction cups. It fits snugly and leaves no airpockets like the FiveTen Anasazi Arrowheads (these are both great shoes, but they never seem to fit me right). The heel rubber is spectacular for heel hooks, although, to be fair, very few shoes are bad at heel hooks.

Like most aggressive, downturned, frequently-downsized sport or bouldering shoes, they are an absolute nightmare to put on. That's the M.O. for this type of shoe; I have yet to wear a shoe of this style that is easy to put on. However, the lace structure is stable and flexible and offers a lot more fit customization than you might think.

La Sportiva uses Vibram XS Grip2 rubber. This is my favorite kind of rubber because it offers long-lasting performance. I've had plenty of La Sportiva shoes and have sent hard problems even in 3-year-old shoes. After you've used them for years and have worn nearly through the rubber, La Sportiva climbing shoes will be a great backup or hand-me-down. The performance lasts a long, long time. Despite my appreciation of 5.10, Evolv, and other companies, their shoes have never matched La Sportiva for longevity in my experience.

Still aggressive after a lot of use. 

Alternatives include the Evolv Shaman (a.k.a., Chris Sharma's shoe) and the FiveTen Team 5.10. These shoes are a bit cheaper, offer similar (although, in my opinion, lesser) performance, and have the undisputed advantage of looking less silly. 

In the world of climbing shoes, the La Sportiva Solutions are the sports cars: sleek, powerful, aggressive, and built for performance. To continue the analogy, you can't expect Lamborghini performance at Hyundai prices. The price tag reflects the work and engineering that has been put into theses shoes. At $170, the La Sportiva Solutions are one of the most expensive climbing shoes on the market. You can buy them from Amazon.comat the link below.


Pull harder,

Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

Review: Evolv Demorto Rock Shoes

I recently picked up a new pair of Evolv Men's Demorto Rock Climbing Shoe. They were on sale at REI for $99, but it looks like you can pick them up from Amazon for $64.66. Follow that link, gumshoe.

Evolv Demorto Climbing Shoes

Evolv and Rugged Innovations have a long, sordid history. RI co-owner Bryce bought a pair of Evolvs a few years ago and blew out the rubber in the toe in one afternoon at the gym. Seriously? I thought Chris Sharma used these. Needless to say, that put a bad taste in our mouths about Evolvs. However, it's been a few years. I was willing to let bygones be bygones and give Evolvs a second chance. So far, so decent.

I run a size 9.5 in street shoes and I bought the Demortos in size 9. I don't usually downsize too hard. I spend long days at the crag and and I need to be able to leave my shoes on without feeling like the victim of some Dynastic Chinese foot mutilation ritual. Even at only half a size down, these things are tighter than a gnat's arse. I'm going to preemptively stop this line of analogies before it gets out of hand.

One interesting thing about these shoes is that they are designed for Morton's Toe. People with Morton's Toe are freaks of nature whose index toe sticks out farther than their big toe. The shoes have a symmetrical toe box with a little extra space for the index toe to wiggle around. I have standard, non-mutant feet and didn't notice a difference between this and a standard toe box. All downsized shoes feel like death until they are broken in, and these are no exception. If you are going to buy these true-to-size it might be noticeable. If you have Morton's Toe, it's your lucky day!

RI mascot "Carl" laces up for a big climb.

I took these shoes to the local gym for a try-out. The rubber is grippy, stiff, and great for small feet. The shoes have a minor downturn that helps with overhanging climbs. The heel is totally smooth, which is not ideal for heel hooks. However, the fit in the heel is great (which cannot be said for 5.10 heel cups), allowing you to really stick heel moves in spite of not having texture on the outside.

The fit in the rest of the shoe is also great for my foot shape. I like to keep my toe box a little looser than usual for long or multi-pitch climbs. The laces go deep into the toe box, allowing you to really customize your fit. The only issue I have is that the tongue does not sit totally flat against the top of your foot; it tends to fold over. Over long periods of time, the crease in the tongue leaves a long red mark on the top of my foot. There might be a way of tying them that reduces or eliminates that issue.

A few days later, I took the shoes out to Red Rocks Canyon for an afternoon of outdoor sport climbing. They were still new, so wearing them around all day was agonizing. Performance-wise, the shoes delivered. It was raining lightly for most of the afternoon, and the shoes clung to wet rock like a pair of multi-colored barnacles. I was singing the new-shoes blues while cruising up the sandstone.

I tentatively unpour my deep glass of Evolv-flavored Haterade. If these break in nicely and don't unexpectedly blow out a toe, I will be a happy customer.

The Evolv Men's Demorto Rock Climbing Shoe is available starting at $64.66. That's a steal for the quality.

Stay safe.

by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations