spawns some pretty lively debate. I've heard people call it a pointless, expensive gimmick. I've heard other people call it the future of rock climbing. Our initial impression was simply "Huh... neat." We put it to the test and came to our own conclusions. |
| Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock Carabiner |
Rugged Innovations decided to pick up a Magnetron Gridlock and see for ourselves. First off, the Gridlock figure-eight design is great for belaying. It prevents your carabiner from shifting and cross-loading the carabiner. I've never seen a belay carabiner break, but it certainly is possible. As one of your only non-redundant pieces of gear, your belay carabiner should be a priority.
The Magnetron action is smooth and has a very satisfying "click" when opening. Despite my initial skepticism, the lock mechanism feels sturdy in my hand. One of my only issues with the magnet locking mechanism is that playing with it is extremely addicting. It's like clicking a pen. You will find yourself idly opening and closing the magnets constantly. This is troubling when your partner's life depends on that lock staying closed. click. click. click. click. click. click. Try not to play with it. Try. You can't.
Another excellent feature of the carabiner is that it can be opened with one hand and ambidextrously. Southpaws and amputees, rejoice. The one-handed operation is great for anchoring and other stressful moments. It's not a huge perk but it's definitely nice. Screwlock and twistlock carabiners are also technically able to be opened with one hand but anyone who's tried to open a tightly-closed screw-lock carabiner with one hand knows this can be extremely hard. Magnetrons are truly easy to open one-handed.
As far as durability and mechanism endurance, these guys are solid. Vertical Life magazine did a piece where they subjected Magnetrons to water, dirt, foreign bodies, and all kinds of unlikely rope situations. The bottom line is that it is as safe as your screwlock carabiners. How safe is that? As safe as you let it be. Keep your gear clean, safe, and retire it when needed.
So what's our verdict? Buy one. Buy three. They are a breeze to use, as safe as any other carabiner, fun to play with, and have a significant cool factor (don't underestimate this). Sure, you might get some weird looks at the gym or the crag but don't let it phase you. Let one of the dirty-lookers play with it for 5 minutes and they'll be buying one too.
The Black Diamond Magnetron GridLock Carabiner is available for $29.95.
is available for $29.95.
Stay safe.
by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations
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