Saturday, February 16, 2013

Simple Nutrition for Rock Climbers: Eat Better, Pull Harder.

Simple Nutrition for Rock Climbers: Eat Better, Pull Harder.


This article is the first of a three-part series. It discusses simple nutrition, eating habits, and other ways that rock climbers can improve their performance by thinking about their diets. The second article discusses rest and injury recovery for rock climbers. The third article will talk about supplements and other ways to maximize your training. Remember: I am not a doctor and this is not medical advice. If you have serious dietary needs, talk to a professional.

Nutrition and Foods for Rock Climbers
Some healthy food options from the ol' RI icebox. Not pictured: beer. 
Rock climbing is an intense physical sport. You spend an afternoon in the local rock climbing gym and leave feeling fine -- maybe a little pumped in the forearms. The next day, you feel like a truck ran you over. You're sore in muscles you didn't even know existed. What gives?

Rock climbing can involve strength, endurance, and/or cardiovascular exercise depending on how it's done and at what level of expertise. It's pretty indisputable that climbing puts a great deal of strain on your body. So why don't climbers behave like athletes? Why do so few of us treat rock climbing like a sport? I've met hundreds of climbers. Very few treat climbing like a sport in terms of recovery, nutrition, and supplements.

A lot of climbers act like they're too cool to care about their body. They pound energy drinks to stay alert. They bring a loaf of bread, a tub of peanut butter, and a jar of jelly to the crag with them. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner! If you suggest healthier food -- actual food -- they scoff. And forget taking supplements to aid their recovery. In my experience, the average early-to-mid-20s climber guy lives on a diet of Monster Energy Drinks, Little Caesar's $5 pizzas, cheap beer, and bad sleep.  

There's bad news and good news. The bad news is that you will never, ever, ever reach your potential as an athlete if you continue treating your body like trash. Like, ever. The good news is that your can make small changes to your daily habits that will make a big difference in how you climb. 

Let's talk about food. Serious athletes have scientifically-rigorous discussions about macronutrients. Bodybuilding.com, despite the name conjuring up images of juiced-up fratboy meatheads, has a great deal of information about how to calculate your macronutrient split. For many of you, this information is total overkill.

There are simple ways to clean up your diet that do not involve having to read books about science or argue with people on the internet. One of the easiest ways to see quick results in your climbing is to start thinking about your intake of liquids. In my experience, many rock climbers are in a state of perpetual dehydration. Start bringing more water to the crag. Bring a gallon jug of water per person. Drink it all. If you're one of those people who only drinks water when it's available and directly in front of you, you should see improvements in energy levels and endurance within a month or so of consistent attention to your hydration.

Snacks for Rock Climbing
Crag snacks!
Another easy way to treat your body better with minimal effort is to reduce the amount of sugary drinks in your life. Energy drinks and soda are full of sugar in the form of high fructose corn syrup. This stuff is not toxic in itself, but most people overdo it. Any time you would have a Red Bull, Starbucks Caramel Macchiato, Coke, or other sugary drink, just grab a bottle of water instead. You will probably have carbohydrate cravings; try to ignore them or satiate them with a light snack.

Speaking of light snacks, let's talk about crag food. I've seen some pretty awful stuff. A Subway sandwich and a 30-rack of Pabst Blue Ribbon does not a Chris Sharma make, sorry brohams. Have some simple carbs before you start climbing to give you some energy. Here are some good, cheap, nutritionally-useful snacks you can bring to the crag with you. Print this list and stick it on your fridge:
  • Bananas (20 cents each!)
  • Apples
  • Oranges
  • Pears
  • Berries of any kind (can get expensive, but I love them)
  • Grapes
  • Plums
  • Peaches
  • Broccoli
  • Celery
  • Carrot sticks
  • Snap peas, string beans, etc.
  • Avocado (A ripe avocado with a little salt is one of nature's best kept secrets -- a bit messy, though)
  • Nuts (almonds, peanuts, cashews, walnuts, pistachios, etc.)
  • Trail mix 
  • Apple sauce
  • Granola
  • Beef jerky
  • Cheese 
  • Yogurt
Everything on that snack list is portable, quick, and requires less than a minute to prepare. Print it out and bring it to the market next time you go. When I am climbing intensely, I try to stop for a snack break every hour or so -- just a couple of bites here and there keeps me going. Snack bars and protein bars can be good in a pinch, but try to make sure they're not loaded with sugar and preservatives. Make sure you consume some protein after climbing so your body can recover and heal.

Everybody's metabolic needs are different, so see what feels best for you. I hope I gave you some good ideas and inspired you to clean up your diet a little bit! This article is written for the average dirtbag rock climber with very little knowledge of nutrition. If serious weight loss or fitness are your goals, there are plenty of resources on the internet. That rabbit hole goes infinitely deep. Feel free to do research, and contact me if you want additional information.

The main points I want to make are simple:
  1. Nutrition matters for rock climbers: If you're not eating well, you will not perform your best.
  2. Nutrition is not hard: There are easy, cheap, delicious ways to eat clean while you climb. 

Disclaimer: I am not a doctor and am not licensed to give medical advice. I am just an athlete who reads a lot of stuff. Please see a doctor if you have any serious dietary inquiries.

Next week, we'll talk about rest and recovery. Eat hard.

by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

For additional reading, please visit the following sites:
http://www.powerbar.com/articles/438/rock-climbing-nutrition.aspx
http://www.pacifichealthlabs.com/blog/climbers-listen-up-this-is-climbing-nutrition-sraight-up/

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