Book Review: Climbing Anchors, by John Long and Bob Gaines (Falcon Guides)

Book Review: Climbing Anchors, by Falcon Guides
By John Long and Bob Gaines

Let's talk about the book Climbing Anchors, by John Long and Bob Gaines. This book is so absolutely necessary for outdoor climbers that is should actually be considered gear. If you haven't read this, put it on your summer reading list immediately. I want a full book report from you when September rolls around.

Climbing Anchors, by John Long and Bob Gaines.

The book starts simple and then delves deep into advanced strategies. An anchor is one of the most critical elements of rock climbing. It is also one of the most common causes of catastrophic failure. Contrary to popular belief, most climbing accidents do not occur as a result of gear breaking. They are caused by human error; either a poorly placed piece of protection, an improperly built anchor, or a lapse of judgement where a person puts trust in something that deserves none. In other words, most climbing accidents are preventable. This book attempts the limit the danger of human error by educating climbers about best practices for rock climbing protection, anchors, and other field-tested safety methods.

Part of the "How to Climb™" series, this book starts from the basic elements of placing protection and works its way to advanced topics. It ranges from purely theoretical (the analysis of fall forces, direction of pull, holding strength of gear) to purely practical (how to pillage a route of protection left behind by previous parties).

The authors, John Long and Bob Gaines, have been teaching climbing for longer than I have been alive. These guys have entire lifetimes of experience individually, and together their expertise is incredible. Their credentials go back years; go ahead and Google their names. They follow explanations and pictures with real-world anecdotes. Together, they recall climbing stories both triumphant and grim. They write with the urgency of men who have lost dear friends to accidents that their knowledge could have prevented. They also have certain dark humor to them; like ambulance drivers who have seen things. They don't always paint a pretty picture, but that's not what their book is about.

This book is great for beginner to intermediate climbers. It discusses some fairly advanced anchor building, but it's all laid out in plain English and described clearly. Even if you've never had to build an anchor or rarely lead, it can give you the ability to double check placements and anchors and verify their safety. It also goes into great detail about different bolts, their history, and relative strengths. This allows you to climb a sport route and determine the safety of the permanent bolts. In other words, you do not need to be a trad leader to benefit from this book.

For more advanced trad climbers, this book still has plenty to offer. I have been climbing for many years, but I still learned some very basic techniques from this book. Everyone has a different pool of knowledge to draw from, and learning 1-2 new ways to set up a certain anchor could save your life. As Long and Gaines point out, there is no climbing anchor that is best in every single case. Each anchoring situation is unique, and anchors must be built on a case-by-case basis. Flexibility and knowledge of alternatives are critical to make sure you are able to consistently create solid anchors.

John Long and Bob Gaines' book "Climbing Anchors, Second Edition", produced by Falcon Guides, can be bought new on Amazon for $10.30 at the link below. That's a bargain for something that you can read in your spare time and could save lives. Check it out!

 

Be safe.

by Ariel Castro
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