Kids Climbing Gear: Choosing the Right Harness

Choosing the Right Climbing Harness for your Kid

Let's talk about climbing gear for children! Kids absolutely love climbing. From newbie to veteran, kids are getting more involved in the climbing community. I volunteer at climbing competitions sometimes and I estimate that 90% of the competitors are under the age of 15. Kids are everywhere and they are the future of the sport. Let's make sure they get the right gear so they can stay safe and have fun!

Kids are different from adults with respect to gear in three ways. First -- and most obviously -- they are smaller! One size does not fit all. Second, they have constant growth spurts requiring size changes relatively often. Third, they are much faster learners than us older folk and they are more likely to quickly change between bouldering, sport, trad, and ice climbing (even zip lining, ropes courses, and via ferrata).

Harnesses are one of the most universal pieces of gear, so they're a good place to start. There are some notable decisions to make when buying a harness for a kid. The biggest choice is between a waist harness and a full-body harness. I will describe the advantages and disadvantages of each:

Full-body Harness

Petzl Simba Kids Harness

For very young kids between the ages of 5-10 some people prefer to use a full-body harness like the Simba Kids Harness By Petzl ($59.95 at Amazon). Full-body harnesses have a few advantages. First, the over-the-shoulder straps make it less likely that the kid will squirm his way out of the harness. I have never seen a kid wriggle his way out of a waist harness, but it's a valid concern if your little one is fidgety. Since kids have smaller waist bones, some people claim that a waist harness could slip off their hips.

Another advantage to a full-body harness is that it makes the child less likely to flip over upside down. Kids tend to have a higher center of gravity than adults, making them more likely to flip over when climbing. A full-body harness with shoulder straps would prevent this from causing problems.

There are a variety of great choices for full-body harnesses.

The Petzl Simba is for children between the ages of 5-10 and below 90 lbs (40kg). It's a bit pricey at $59.95, but I can personally vouch for the quality and safety of Petzl products -- I use Petzl harnesses, ropes, and belay devices on a weekly basis. One cool thing about this harness is that the straps are bicolor, with a pattern on the outside and black on the inside. This means you can easily tell if you kiddo's harness is inside-out. Neat feature!

I have two minor issues with the Petzl Simba harness: First, there are no gear loops for quickdraws, chalk bags, shoes, etc. You can clip things onto the loops themselves, but it's not ideal. Second, the straps are not padded. This means it is not ideal for long climbing sessions. An alternative with padded straps is the Edelrid Fraggle Kids Harness ($59.95 at REI). The Edelrid Fraggle also has the advantage of a weight-bearing loop on the back. You could pick up your kid with the back loop and do bicep curls with him/her! Fun for the whole family.

If price is a concern, the cheapest full-body harness made by a respectable company that I could find is the Edelrid Solid Full-Body Harness, which is currently 30% off on Amazon and is going for $46.17.

Waist Harness

The waist harness is used by adult climbers and may be a good choice for slightly older kids. The advantages of the waist harness are many. They are lighter and less restrictive than full-body harnesses, which facilitates more athletic and gymnastic climbing moves. They are more likely to be padded so they tend to be more comfortable for all-day fun. I wouldn't bother with one of those webbing-only waist harnesses (the ones that look like they're made out of seatbelt material); they are really uncomfortable in my experience.

Waist harnesses often come with gear loops around the waist that allow your kid to clip their equipment onto instead of carrying it around. This is more of an outdoor climbing need, but it's still a nice touch. Waist harnesses are simpler in design and therefore leave less margin for error in donning.

Black Diamond Wiz Kid Harness

The model pictured above is the Black Diamond Wiz Kid Harness ($44.95 at Amazon). It is a scaled-down version of Black Diamond's Momentum SA Harness that we have previously reviewed. I have spent countless hours in the adult version of this harness and can personally attest to its comfort and safety. The only difference that I can spot is that the Wiz Kid appears to have one fewer gear loop than the adult version -- hardly an issue unless your kid is doing some major trad climbing or canyoneering. Another factor you can't neglect is that the Wiz Kid is a cool-looking harness. There is a blue one for boys and a pink one for girls. Looking cool is always important to kids, whether you like it or not.

The padding on this harness is almost like memory foam. It's very comfortable and perfect for all-day adventure. The leg loops have speed adjust straps that can be loosened or tightened with one hand and are easy for adults to visually inspect. The harness is appropriate for kids between 35 and 110 lbs., and is said to run a little small in the waist. The only issue I've noticed is that sometimes the leg loops get twisted and flipped over. Always supervise your kid when they're putting on their waist harness.

If price is a consideration, the Black Diamond Kid's A-Bod Harness has excellent reviews. At $39.95 with Free Shipping on Amazon (and Prime eligible), it's the best deal on a kid's waist harness from a reputable company that I can find.

That's all I have for harness reviews and recommendations! There are good products from many different company and this article is just a small sampling of what's available. Hopefully you found this useful and know what to look for. If you have any questions about specific products or companies that are not included in this article, feel free to get in touch!

Be safe.

Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

Review: La Sportiva TC Pro, Tommy Caldwell's Climbing Shoe

La Sportiva TC Pro.

The La Sportiva TC Pro is the quintessential big wall climbing shoe.  This shoe is a trad climbing dream -- you'd expect nothing less from a Tommy Caldwell signature shoe. The  La Sportiva TC Pro was designed for big wall adventure and all day comfort. These climbing shoes have a variety of features that contribute to the comfort and performance that an absolute hellbeast climber like Tommy Caldwell demands.

Tommy Caldwell needs no introduction.  His first ascents line the history books. Let's not forget about the time Tommy Caldwell stone-cold killed a guy in Kyrgyzstan. That's pretty hardcore. He is a true Yosemite hardman.

Tommy's La Sportiva TC Pros are equally hardcore. These shoes have strategically placed padding on the ankles to protect you in cracks and other tight squeezes.  Anyone who has come home with ankles covered in bruises appreciates this design choice.  While the sides of the ankle are covered, the back of the ankle covering is cut in, giving your Achilles tendon room to stretch into a tip-toe position -- also quite nice. The flexibility enables some moves that the hightops would otherwise prevent.

The bottom of the shoe, called the "last", is flat.  Having a flat (as opposed to downturned) last makes the shoe more comfortable for standing on a small edge for a while trying to get a piece of gear in -- or standing around at belay ledges while your partner tries to get himself unstuck from whatever predicament he's gotten himself into. The P3 platform is stiff, allowing you to stand on small edges for long periods of time without discomfort. They really do offer a ton of support.  I should know; I've been stuck on big multipitch climbs in these for hours.  They have vent holes throughout, allowing your feet to breathe on those hot days.

One downside to the TC Pros is the price.  At $180, the La Sportiva TC Pro shoes are the most expensive climbing shoes on the market.  You could buy two other pairs of shoes with amount of money it takes to buy these.  That said, the quality is outstanding.

La Sportiva TC Pro at a rakish angle. 

While the shoes boast comfort and durability, you will be pleasantly surprised with the performance.  The edges are made with Vibram XS Edge rubber.  They are sharp and great on technical footwork or tiny edges.  I've used these shoes on sport climbs up to the 5.10d/5.11a range with no performance issues compared to a self-designated sport shoe. Above that, I end up preferring something more aggressive, downturned, and sharp.

My TC Pros are at least 2 years old.  They are, to-date, the most comfortable climbing shoes I've ever worn.  I've spent 8-10 hours straight in these shoes with no shoe-related discomfort. As you can see in the pictures, they've held up pretty well over the years.  There is some minor cosmetic damage, but they still perform admirably.  They might also be the longest-lasting pair of shoes I've ever had.  That's no small feat, considering the amount of abuse I put shoes through.

The bottom line: If you want ridiculously long-lasting, all-day performance and comfort when climbing multipitch or big wall trad, the La Sportiva TC Pro is the best shoe on the market.  Like some other La Sportiva products, the price is very high, but the quality is remarkable. If you're looking for something with a lower price but similar performance, I suggest the La Sportiva Mythos or the FiveTen Men's Anasazi Lace-Up V2.

You can purchase the La Sportiva TC Pro climbing shoes for $179.95 on Amazon at the link below:
 

Be safe.

Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

Book Review: Climbing Anchors, by John Long and Bob Gaines (Falcon Guides)

Book Review: Climbing Anchors, by Falcon Guides
By John Long and Bob Gaines

Let's talk about the book Climbing Anchors, by John Long and Bob Gaines. This book is so absolutely necessary for outdoor climbers that is should actually be considered gear. If you haven't read this, put it on your summer reading list immediately. I want a full book report from you when September rolls around.

Climbing Anchors, by John Long and Bob Gaines.

The book starts simple and then delves deep into advanced strategies. An anchor is one of the most critical elements of rock climbing. It is also one of the most common causes of catastrophic failure. Contrary to popular belief, most climbing accidents do not occur as a result of gear breaking. They are caused by human error; either a poorly placed piece of protection, an improperly built anchor, or a lapse of judgement where a person puts trust in something that deserves none. In other words, most climbing accidents are preventable. This book attempts the limit the danger of human error by educating climbers about best practices for rock climbing protection, anchors, and other field-tested safety methods.

Part of the "How to Climb™" series, this book starts from the basic elements of placing protection and works its way to advanced topics. It ranges from purely theoretical (the analysis of fall forces, direction of pull, holding strength of gear) to purely practical (how to pillage a route of protection left behind by previous parties).

The authors, John Long and Bob Gaines, have been teaching climbing for longer than I have been alive. These guys have entire lifetimes of experience individually, and together their expertise is incredible. Their credentials go back years; go ahead and Google their names. They follow explanations and pictures with real-world anecdotes. Together, they recall climbing stories both triumphant and grim. They write with the urgency of men who have lost dear friends to accidents that their knowledge could have prevented. They also have certain dark humor to them; like ambulance drivers who have seen things. They don't always paint a pretty picture, but that's not what their book is about.

This book is great for beginner to intermediate climbers. It discusses some fairly advanced anchor building, but it's all laid out in plain English and described clearly. Even if you've never had to build an anchor or rarely lead, it can give you the ability to double check placements and anchors and verify their safety. It also goes into great detail about different bolts, their history, and relative strengths. This allows you to climb a sport route and determine the safety of the permanent bolts. In other words, you do not need to be a trad leader to benefit from this book.

For more advanced trad climbers, this book still has plenty to offer. I have been climbing for many years, but I still learned some very basic techniques from this book. Everyone has a different pool of knowledge to draw from, and learning 1-2 new ways to set up a certain anchor could save your life. As Long and Gaines point out, there is no climbing anchor that is best in every single case. Each anchoring situation is unique, and anchors must be built on a case-by-case basis. Flexibility and knowledge of alternatives are critical to make sure you are able to consistently create solid anchors.

John Long and Bob Gaines' book "Climbing Anchors, Second Edition", produced by Falcon Guides, can be bought new on Amazon for $10.30 at the link below. That's a bargain for something that you can read in your spare time and could save lives. Check it out!

 

Be safe.

by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations -->