Rest and Recovery for Rock Climbers: Live to Climb Another Day.

Rest and Recovery for Rock Climbers: Live to Climb Another Day. 

Let's talk about rest and recovery methods for rock climbers. Optimizing your downtime allows you to return more quickly to the sports you love. This article is the second of a three-part series that focuses on getting climbers to take care of their bodies. Part one is called Simple Nutrition for Rock Climbers: Eat Better, Pull Harder and talks about some small, easy ways to clean up your diet while climbing.

Rock climbing takes a huge toll on your body. Hard climbing introduces thousands of microtears to the tissue of your muscles. Tendon injuries are common in the hands, wrists, elbows, shoulders, and elsewhere. The skin on your hands can end up looking like it's been cheese grated. Dislocations of the shoulder, and weirdly, knee, are quite common. Broken bones can occur during falls -- I saw a woman take a hard fall in the gym and instantly develop what can only be described as an "accidental second ankle". Experienced climbers rarely suffer dramatic injuries like that, but repetitive motion and overuse injuries are common.

There are lots of ways you can help your body recover from the stresses of rock climbing. The best kind of recovery is also the hardest: time. Your body needs time to recover. The easiest, fastest way to let your body heal from its injuries -- be they big or small -- is to rest. First, you need to lay off your injured body. Let's talk about sleep.

1. Sleep

Getting enough sleep makes you a better climber... and better at pretty much everything else, too. This is not up for discussion. Everyone knows it's super important to get "enough" sleep. How much is enough? Conventional wisdom says to get 7 to 9 hours of sleep. You are not a conventional person, though. Conventional people sit in cubicles and listen to The Eagles. Our kind is a different breed. We climb sheer faces, scale massive mountains, and pull ourselves up ice spires. Conventional wisdom can suck it. We need more.

All the research I've seen shows that seven to nine hours of sleep is not enough for an athlete who wants to be at the top of his/her game. A study done by Stanford University for the really-ambiguously-named journal "Sleep" shows that increasing the amount of sleep had a positive effect on athletic performance in college basketball players. Another study done on Stanford athletes (swimmers, basketball players, and football players) corroborates the previous finding. In our previous article, we (hopefully) convinced you that, as a rock climber, you are an athlete. All these studies about sleep apply directly to your life, your performance, and your ability to send. In his book called "The Athlete's Guide to Recovery: Rest, Relax, and Restore for Peak Performance", the author Sage Rountree goes over some great ways to optimize your rest days.

To summarize, rock climbers need to sleep more. To that end, you probably should drink less. Don't kill the messenger.

2. Recovery and Alternatives

Nothing can scratch that climbing itch while you're recovering, but there are plenty of fun ways to keep your body and mind in shape. The perennial rest-day favorite is slacklining. Have you ever tried it? I used to think it was stupid. "I'm not gonna do that ridiculous Cirque Du Soleil shit" - Me, more recently than I care to admit. A climber friend showed me how to do it, and slowly I was able to walk across the line. I couldn't even stand on the thing the first few times I tried. Give it a shot! It's not going to replace climbing, but it takes a great deal of balance and focus. More importantly, it gives you something to do at the rock climbing gym while your friends are climbing. Slacklining keeps your mind and body busy so you don't get tempted to climb hard and re-injure yourself.

In addition to slacklining, everyone recommends yoga as a great "rest-day" exercise. I had never tried it, so I put on some athletic shorts, signed up for a yoga gym, "Vegas Hot", and gave it a shot. I tried three different programs: Hot Mat Pilates for 60 minutes, Hot Yoga for 60 minutes, and Hot Mat Pilates/Yoga Mix for 75 minutes. The Hot Mat Pilates 60 was brutal. The room is pitch black and kept at 105 degrees Fahrenheit and 40% humidity. You do aerobics mixed with static poses for the entire hour, sweating more than you have ever thought was possible. It was fun, but there's nothing "rest-day" about it. You do plyometrics, isometrics, and everything in between. Let me be clear: hot mat Pilates is not a rest-day exercise. It IS a full day's workout in itself.

Hot Yoga 60, on the other hand, is perfect for rest days. The heated room was great for my sore muscles (from the previous day's Hot Mat Pilates). The poses are all fairly static and do not require a great deal of strength. I found the hip mobility and stretching exercises to be very helpful because my hips are some of my least-mobile joints. Increasing hip mobility can increase the ease of really athletic climbing moves like high-steps and heel hooks.

Hot Mat Pilates/Yoga Mix 75 was one of the most athletically challenging things I've ever done in my life. It was also in the 105 degree room at 40% humidity. The Pilates part was intense cardio; burpees, mountain climbers, explosive squats, you name it! I started getting lightheaded about 50 minutes into it and almost fainted. My hands and feet started tingling and I thought I was going to have a heart attack. I sat on my mat and sweat for the remaining 25 minutes. I am in fairly good cardiovascular shape and work out about 4-5 times per week, and I couldn't do it. Once again, not a rest-day exercise. Don't try this at home. Stick with a yoga beginner's class if you can find one.

I found this video on Reddit of some yoga made specifically for climbers. It's not as intense as a yoga class, but it'll give you a good idea of what to expect:

There are a few other ways I take care of my muscles on rest days. I have a foam roller that I use for massaging my muscles. It's a simple tool, but it really helps me recover faster from intense workouts. Intense workouts cause damage to the tissue of your muscles. When you massage your muscles, you stimulate blood to flow into those muscles, helping them recover faster than they would otherwise. Also, it feels great, and is significantly cheaper than getting a professional massage every week. Mine is a slightly more "deluxe" model that has different areas that simulate palm, finger, and fingertip massages. My foam roller is a Trigger Point "The Grid" Foam Roller, $39.95 on Amazon.com. Seriously, buy one. There are cheaper options if you shop around a little bit; you don't need the fancy kind to get the main benefits of a foam roller.

Heat lamps, hot tubs, saunas, and steam rooms also help your muscles recover. "The therapeutic effects of heat include increasing the extensibility of collagen tissues; decreasing joint stiffness; reducing pain; relieving muscle spasms; reducing inflammation, edema, and aids in the post acute phase of healing; and increasing blood flow. The increased blood flow to the affected area provides proteins, nutrients, and oxygen for better healing."

3. Injuries

I am not a doctor, so I am not going to give out any medical advice. However, I have been injured plenty of times and have some anecdotal experience I'd like to share. I've had tendonitis, sprains, tennis elbow, and all kinds of other common climbing injuries.

When you have, say, tennis elbow, it's easy to stay off it for a week or two when it still hurts. The problems occur during that third week, fourth week, fifth week, and onward. After the second week or so, the pain starts to go away. Your body thinks it's ready to go again. You get bored. Your friends call you and want to go on a climbing road trip. At this point, it's really easy to put more strain on your body and make the injury significantly worse. You need self-control. Let your injuries heal for significantly longer than you think is necessary. It sucks, but it's one of the only ways to avoid re-injury. Tendon injuries can take months to totally heal. Lay off it.

Serious injuries require the attention of a doctor. Neglecting them can make it worse. If you can, try to see a doctor who specializes in Sports Medicine. These doctors have seen many cases of the types of injuries you are likely to have and know exactly how to get you back in action again. Don't expect fast results, though. Healing takes a great deal of time.

There is such a huge amount of literature available on the internet about healing, recovery, and injury prevention for rock climbers. Here's some additional reading:
The Stone Mind - Injured Reserve
The Stone Mind - You Need To Rest
Dream in Vertical - PDF of Shoulder Workouts for Climbers
Reddit - An excellent discussion on "Climber's Elbow" prevention and healing
LiveStrong - Delayed Onset Muscle Soreness
LiveStrong - How To Make Muscles Recover Faster

Rest up!

by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

Simple Nutrition for Rock Climbers: Eat Better, Pull Harder.

Simple Nutrition for Rock Climbers: Eat Better, Pull Harder.

This article is the first of a three-part series. It discusses simple nutrition, eating habits, and other ways that rock climbers can improve their performance by thinking about their diets. The second article discusses rest and injury recovery for rock climbers. The third article will talk about supplements and other ways to maximize your training. Remember: I am not a doctor and this is not medical advice. If you have serious dietary needs, talk to a professional.

Some healthy food options from the ol' RI icebox. Not pictured: beer. 

Rock climbing is an intense physical sport. You spend an afternoon in the local rock climbing gym and leave feeling fine -- maybe a little pumped in the forearms. The next day, you feel like a truck ran you over. You're sore in muscles you didn't even know existed. What gives?

Rock climbing can involve strength, endurance, and/or cardiovascular exercise depending on how it's done and at what level of expertise. It's pretty indisputable that climbing puts a great deal of strain on your body. So why don't climbers behave like athletes? Why do so few of us treat rock climbing like a sport? I've met hundreds of climbers. Very few treat climbing like a sport in terms of recovery, nutrition, and supplements.

A lot of climbers act like they're too cool to care about their body. They pound energy drinks to stay alert. They bring a loaf of bread, a tub of peanut butter, and a jar of jelly to the crag with them. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner! If you suggest healthier food -- actual food -- they scoff. And forget taking supplements to aid their recovery. In my experience, the average early-to-mid-20s climber guy lives on a diet of Monster Energy Drinks, Little Caesar's $5 pizzas, cheap beer, and bad sleep.  

There's bad news and good news. The bad news is that you will never, ever, ever reach your potential as an athlete if you continue treating your body like trash. Like, ever. The good news is that your can make small changes to your daily habits that will make a big difference in how you climb. 

Let's talk about food. Serious athletes have scientifically-rigorous discussions about macronutrients. Bodybuilding.com, despite the name conjuring up images of juiced-up fratboy meatheads, has a great deal of information about how to calculate your macronutrient split. For many of you, this information is total overkill.

There are simple ways to clean up your diet that do not involve having to read books about science or argue with people on the internet. One of the easiest ways to see quick results in your climbing is to start thinking about your intake of liquids. In my experience, many rock climbers are in a state of perpetual dehydration. Start bringing more water to the crag. Bring a gallon jug of water per person. Drink it all. If you're one of those people who only drinks water when it's available and directly in front of you, you should see improvements in energy levels and endurance within a month or so of consistent attention to your hydration.

Crag snacks!

Another easy way to treat your body better with minimal effort is to reduce the amount of sugary drinks in your life. Energy drinks and soda are full of sugar in the form of high fructose corn syrup. This stuff is not toxic in itself, but most people overdo it. Any time you would have a Red Bull, Starbucks Caramel Macchiato, Coke, or other sugary drink, just grab a bottle of water instead. You will probably have carbohydrate cravings; try to ignore them or satiate them with a light snack.

Speaking of light snacks, let's talk about crag food. I've seen some pretty awful stuff. A Subway sandwich and a 30-rack of Pabst Blue Ribbon does not a Chris Sharma make, sorry brohams. Have some simple carbs before you start climbing to give you some energy. Here are some good, cheap, nutritionally-useful snacks you can bring to the crag with you. Print this list and stick it on your fridge:

• Bananas (20 cents each!)
• Apples
• Oranges
• Pears
• Berries of any kind (can get expensive, but I love them)
• Grapes
• Plums
• Peaches
• Broccoli
• Celery
• Carrot sticks
• Snap peas, string beans, etc.
• Avocado (A ripe avocado with a little salt is one of nature's best kept secrets -- a bit messy, though)
• Nuts (almonds, peanuts, cashews, walnuts, pistachios, etc.)
• Trail mix 
• Apple sauce
• Granola
• Beef jerky
• Cheese 
• Yogurt

Everything on that snack list is portable, quick, and requires less than a minute to prepare. Print it out and bring it to the market next time you go. When I am climbing intensely, I try to stop for a snack break every hour or so -- just a couple of bites here and there keeps me going. Snack bars and protein bars can be good in a pinch, but try to make sure they're not loaded with sugar and preservatives. Make sure you consume some protein after climbing so your body can recover and heal.

Everybody's metabolic needs are different, so see what feels best for you. I hope I gave you some good ideas and inspired you to clean up your diet a little bit! This article is written for the average dirtbag rock climber with very little knowledge of nutrition. If serious weight loss or fitness are your goals, there are plenty of resources on the internet. That rabbit hole goes infinitely deep. Feel free to do research, and contact me if you want additional information.

The main points I want to make are simple:

1. Nutrition matters for rock climbers: If you're not eating well, you will not perform your best.
2. Nutrition is not hard: There are easy, cheap, delicious ways to eat clean while you climb. 

Disclaimer: I am not a doctor and am not licensed to give medical advice. I am just an athlete who reads a lot of stuff. Please see a doctor if you have any serious dietary inquiries.

Next week, we'll talk about rest and recovery. Eat hard.

by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations

For additional reading, please visit the following sites:
http://www.powerbar.com/articles/438/rock-climbing-nutrition.aspx
http://www.pacifichealthlabs.com/blog/climbers-listen-up-this-is-climbing-nutrition-sraight-up/

Anchor and Fixed Gear Replacement Movements sweep the U.S.

Rapidly deteriorating fixed rappel rings, bolts, and anchors are starting to become a major safety issue. Much of the fixed gear at America's favorite climbing crags has been around since the 70s or 80s. Young climbers are risking their lives by climbing on rusty equipment that's older than them. 

Rebolting of Birdhunter Buttress,
from AlpineInstitute.blogspot.com

There's often no way to know the condition of the anchors you will later abseil from. If you're climbing from the ground up you look to the skies and hope they're safe. The bolts can also be problematic. Even brand new bolts and anchors can be a hazard if they are not installed safely. Falls onto bolts can very easily generate thousands of pounds of force. Old pins and pitons are unbelievably sketchy, but we use them all the time. Sport climbers and trad climbers alike benefit from the replacement of unsafe gear.

I'm no physicist or engineer, but let's do some napkin math. A bolt is a 2-inch piece of steel that is drilled into a wall. It is exposed to snow, hail, acid rain, and UV light. Some of these bolts have been sitting around for 30 years. When rock climbers fall, forces can exceed 10 kilonewtons. A kilonewton is approximately 224 lbs. 10 kilonewtons * 224 lbs. = 2240 lbs. I don't think a rusty, 30 year old, 2-inch piece of steel can hold 2240 pounds of force, and I am not willing to risk my life to find out.

A movement is growing in popular climbing crags across the United States. Grassroots groups and nonprofit organizations are starting to spring up everywhere. Sometimes, a small and dedicated group of local climbers will get together and pool their resources to refurbish just one local crag. In other cases, large nonprofit organizations like the American Safe Climbing Association, the Access Fund, and others will contribute time and resources to the cause.

These movements have also attracted the attention of companies. In 2003, Climbing Magazine, Petzl, and The North Face launched the Anchor Replacement Initiative. Dozens of big-name climbing companies like Black Diamond, Mammut, Metolius, Super Topo, and Mountain Project have contributed money and gear to these efforts.

To date, tens of thousands of old bolts and anchors have been replaced. Nonprofit groups are tirelessly replacing bolts and anchors on our favorite routes out of their own pockets. This type of selfless, pay-it-forward mentality keeps rock climbing fun, safe, and increases the sense of camaraderie between generations of rock climbers.

Get involved! Your time, money, or expertise can create a lasting positive impact on the climbing community. It might even save your life!

Stay safe.

by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations


For additional reading, please visit the following websites:
Anchor Replacement Initiative
American Safe Climbing Association
Access Fund and National Park Service Petition
Yank the Mank
Team Suck Climbing
BadBolts.com

"Run For Your Lives!", a zombie themed 5k run.

*Begin transmission* 

BIOHAZARD WARNING

We interrupt our regularly scheduled programming with a special news bulletin. A sister organization in Missouri has informed us of an outbreak of a highly contagious blood-borne pathogen that infects human victims with a virus.

The virus is EXTREMELY dangerous and thought to be highly contagious. The virus destroys brain cells and infects the host with a form of skin necrosis. Subjects are found to have an insatiable taste for human blood. 

Anyone in contact with the virus should be considered a threat to your life. If you see an infected victim, RUN FOR YOUR LIVES! 

*End transmission*

We at Rugged Innovations hope you've done your stretches because these aren't the slow, shambling George Romero zombies. These are the ferocious, sprinting, howling balls of fury that shriek and wail and chase you like their death depends on it. Get ready for Run For Your Lives!, a zombie infested 5k obstacle course race. 

The premise is simple. You get a belt with small flags on it that can be easily removed (remember Flag football in junior high school?). The flags on the belt represent your health. Zombies infest the area and are trying to eat your brains deplete your health by taking away your flags. Your job is to survive the zombie apocalypse by running away from the zombies and getting through the 5k obstacle course with at least one flag still on your belt.

Darwinian natural selection takes priority here, folks. You don't have to be faster than the zombies, you just have to be faster than the slowest person in your group.

A few rules to remember: 

1. Make sure you limber up:

2. Avoid arterial spray.

3. RUN FOR YOUR LIVES!!!!!!!!

Stay safe.

by Ariel Castro

Rugged Innovations

Review: Black Diamond Magnetron GridLock Locking Carabiner.

The Black Diamond Magnetron GridLock Carabiner spawns some pretty lively debate. I've heard people call it a pointless, expensive gimmick. I've heard other people call it the future of rock climbing. Our initial impression was simply "Huh... neat." We put it to the test and came to our own conclusions.

Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock Carabiner

Rugged Innovations decided to pick up a Magnetron Gridlock and see for ourselves. First off, the Gridlock figure-eight design is great for belaying. It prevents your carabiner from shifting and cross-loading the carabiner. I've never seen a belay carabiner break, but it certainly is possible. As one of your only non-redundant pieces of gear, your belay carabiner should be a priority. 

The Magnetron action is smooth and has a very satisfying "click" when opening. Despite my initial skepticism, the lock mechanism feels sturdy in my hand. One of my only issues with the magnet locking mechanism is that playing with it is extremely addicting. It's like clicking a pen. You will find yourself idly opening and closing the magnets constantly. This is troubling when your partner's life depends on that lock staying closed. click. click. click. click. click. click. Try not to play with it. Try. You can't. 

Another excellent feature of the carabiner is that it can be opened with one hand and ambidextrously. Southpaws and amputees, rejoice. The one-handed operation is great for anchoring and other stressful moments. It's not a huge perk but it's definitely nice. Screwlock and twistlock carabiners are also technically able to be opened with one hand but anyone who's tried to open a tightly-closed screw-lock carabiner with one hand knows this can be extremely hard. Magnetrons are truly easy to open one-handed.

As far as durability and mechanism endurance, these guys are solid. Vertical Life magazine did a piece where they subjected Magnetrons to water, dirt, foreign bodies, and all kinds of unlikely rope situations. The bottom line is that it is as safe as your screwlock carabiners. How safe is that? As safe as you let it be. Keep your gear clean, safe, and retire it when needed. 

So what's our verdict? Buy one. Buy three. They are a breeze to use, as safe as any other carabiner, fun to play with, and have a significant cool factor (don't underestimate this). Sure, you might get some weird looks at the gym or the crag but don't let it phase you. Let one of the dirty-lookers play with it for 5 minutes and they'll be buying one too. 

The Black Diamond Magnetron GridLock Carabiner is available for $29.95.

Stay safe.

by Ariel Castro

Rugged Innovations

Preview: Black Diamond Camalot X4 Cams

Black Diamond's Camalot X4 Climbing Cam ($69.95 on Amazon) is finally available!

 I have a few initial impressions. Compared to Black Diamond Camalot C4s, the X4s go two sizes smaller. Each X4 weighs a few grams less than the equivalently-sized C4 and is also slightly narrower. The X4 is a four cam unit, while the older C3 cams are three cam units. The X4 has a nice sturdy cable construction that should be great for placing in horizontals without feeling your life drain away before your eyes.

What these Camalots really represent is a true competitor to the beloved Fixe Alien Cam, Metolius Master Cam , and Wild Country Zero. With the Camalot X4, BD introduces a microcam option that is stronger, lighter, more flexible, and more versatile than their previous entry into the market. The Black Diamond Camalot C3, while definitely a solid product, has never really been comparable because of lack of flexibility. Black Diamond has thrown a beefy contender into the arena of small, specialized trad and aid climbing protection. Here's hoping the product delivers!

Any thoughts? We'd love to hear them!

   

Stay safe.

by Ariel Castro

Rugged Innovations

Review: Evolv Demorto Rock Shoes

I recently picked up a new pair of Evolv Men's Demorto Rock Climbing Shoe. They were on sale at REI for $99, but it looks like you can pick them up from Amazon for $64.66. Follow that link, gumshoe.

Evolv Demorto Climbing Shoes

Evolv and Rugged Innovations have a long, sordid history. RI co-owner Bryce bought a pair of Evolvs a few years ago and blew out the rubber in the toe in one afternoon at the gym. Seriously? I thought Chris Sharma used these. Needless to say, that put a bad taste in our mouths about Evolvs. However, it's been a few years. I was willing to let bygones be bygones and give Evolvs a second chance. So far, so decent.

I run a size 9.5 in street shoes and I bought the Demortos in size 9. I don't usually downsize too hard. I spend long days at the crag and and I need to be able to leave my shoes on without feeling like the victim of some Dynastic Chinese foot mutilation ritual. Even at only half a size down, these things are tighter than a gnat's arse. I'm going to preemptively stop this line of analogies before it gets out of hand.

One interesting thing about these shoes is that they are designed for Morton's Toe. People with Morton's Toe are freaks of nature whose index toe sticks out farther than their big toe. The shoes have a symmetrical toe box with a little extra space for the index toe to wiggle around. I have standard, non-mutant feet and didn't notice a difference between this and a standard toe box. All downsized shoes feel like death until they are broken in, and these are no exception. If you are going to buy these true-to-size it might be noticeable. If you have Morton's Toe, it's your lucky day!

RI mascot "Carl" laces up for a big climb.

I took these shoes to the local gym for a try-out. The rubber is grippy, stiff, and great for small feet. The shoes have a minor downturn that helps with overhanging climbs. The heel is totally smooth, which is not ideal for heel hooks. However, the fit in the heel is great (which cannot be said for 5.10 heel cups), allowing you to really stick heel moves in spite of not having texture on the outside.

The fit in the rest of the shoe is also great for my foot shape. I like to keep my toe box a little looser than usual for long or multi-pitch climbs. The laces go deep into the toe box, allowing you to really customize your fit. The only issue I have is that the tongue does not sit totally flat against the top of your foot; it tends to fold over. Over long periods of time, the crease in the tongue leaves a long red mark on the top of my foot. There might be a way of tying them that reduces or eliminates that issue.

A few days later, I took the shoes out to Red Rocks Canyon for an afternoon of outdoor sport climbing. They were still new, so wearing them around all day was agonizing. Performance-wise, the shoes delivered. It was raining lightly for most of the afternoon, and the shoes clung to wet rock like a pair of multi-colored barnacles. I was singing the new-shoes blues while cruising up the sandstone.

I tentatively unpour my deep glass of Evolv-flavored Haterade. If these break in nicely and don't unexpectedly blow out a toe, I will be a happy customer.

The Evolv Men's Demorto Rock Climbing Shoe is available starting at $64.66. That's a steal for the quality.

Stay safe.

by Ariel Castro
Rugged Innovations